Want professional tips on how to better personalize your skincare routine? What about a new time saving hack? Or trouble shooting your sensitive skin? Learn the best recommendations from SkinFitLA...
Routine advice
Cycling: Mix up your skincare products to fit your face. Use retinol only five nights a week to give your skin a break. The other two nights apply a chemical AHA to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells.
Mix it up: Try a heavier moisturizer in the dryer seasons and a lighter one in the hot, humid ones. Use a stronger retinol if you are experiencing breakouts, or switch to adapalene (Differin).
Apply where needed: Skip heavier creams on oilier places (nose, chin, forehead). Apply two different masks at the same time - hydrating on cheeks, neck, décolleté and pore reducing on other parts of the face.
Sunscreen secrets
Physical, or mineral, sunscreen is best for sensitive skin. It is made with zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Tinted formulas block blue light too. The tinted formulas blend a little better into my skin than the non-tinted ones. La Roche Posay's Anthelios tinted sunscreen is one of my favorites and comes in multiple shades.
Apply broad spectrum SPF 30+ every day. Even when there are clouds, the sun's ultraviolet rays still damage your skin.
Remember to immediately reapply if your skin gets wet, or every two hours when you are outside.
Don't forget your neck and décolleté. They need sun protection too. It would look strange to have soft, smooth skin on your face and wrinkly, spotted skin on your neck and chest.
Melasma/hyperpigmentation guidance
Check your hormone levels. The added estrogen and progestin in birth control pills can trigger melasma. Also, pregnancy hormones can cause chloasma, aka the mask of pregnancy. Usually your dark spots will fade when when you stop using the pill or give birth.
Definitely stay out of the sun, or anything that heats up the body (saunas, steam rooms, hot kitchens). There is a greater prevalence of melasma in women who work in kitchens.
Hydroquinone is the best topical ingredient for treating dark spots. Try a 4% strength twice daily for optimal results. You will need a prescription which you can get online at places like Musely. Make sure to take a 1-2 month break from your HQ regime every 5 months.
When you are on a break from hydroquinone use other lightening ingredients. These include: azelaic acid, retinol, vitamin c, tranexamic acid, licorice root, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, phytic acid, resveratrol, niacinamide and mandelic acid. There are a few products that incorporate several of these into their formulations - Skinmedica Even and Correct Serum and Topicals Faded Serum.
Taking oral tranexamic acid 650mg/daily has helped my melasma more than almost anything else I've done. It is a prescription that I get from my doctor - which can be a pain to start, but it's worth it in the end.
Keep an ice towel handy when you are outside and/or exercising. I wet a hand towel, put it in the freezer and take it out when I go for bike rides. It helps keep your face cool. Try to avoid heated workout classes, like hot yoga.
Sensitive skin suggestions
Fragrances: They are not your friend. That includes all essential oils, like lavender, lemon, lime, orange, bergamont... I love things that smell amazing, but not on my face. I reserve smelly lotions and potions for my body.
Azelaic acid helps reduce redness, calming and soothing the skin. It is wonderful for those with rosacea and eczema. You can find a prescription strength 15% azelaic acid serum online called Azid by Theramid. I use it every night to help with my rosacea and melasma. It is a true multi-beneficial skin care ingredient.
Wash your face with mild cleansers and lukewarm water - not the ultra hot water in those long, relaxing showers. I really like Murad's Soothing Oat and Peptide Cleanser.
Acne answers
Spot treat acne with a strong salicylic acid. It's not as drying as benzoyl peroxide and it won't bleach your towels. Paula's Choice has one I use everyday called BHA 9 Treatment.
Don't use benzoyl peroxide and retinol together. They can cancel each other out.
You can get prescription strength 15% azelaic acid online at Niche Beauty - OTC strength is 10% or less). It is a fabulous ingredient for all skin types with antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties. It also treats hyperpigmentation.
Try clay, charcoal and salicylic acid masks once or twice a week to dry up excess oil. The Ordinary makes a great, affordable one called Salicylic Acid 2% Masque.
Keep your pillowcase clean. You don't want the oils from your hair and scalp making their way onto your freshly washed face while you sleep.
Don't forget the most important thing...
Love your own skin! It protects your body against harmful toxins in the environment. It also works tirelessly to regulate your body temperature and is constantly producing new skin cells. Treat your skin well and it will continue to glow.